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On New Year's Eve on the Oga peninsula of Akita, the visiting deities come down from the mountains: men in straw capes and demon masks who burst into houses roaring the question every child dreads — any crybabies here? Any lazy ones? The child hides. The parents apologise on their behalf, promise the year's diligence. And the grandmother — who has done this every winter of her life — calmly pours sake for the demon, because the namahage is not an intruder. He is a guest. The ritual, now UNESCO-listed, is older than anyone's certainty about what it means: a blessing wearing the mask of a threat, discipline arriving as folklore. This design renders the visit in the violent full-colour language of musha-e warrior prints — the blade, the straw, the steam of the house's warmth meeting the blizzard at the open door.

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