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Japan runs four million vending machines, and at three in the morning, on a street with no name, one of them is the only thing awake — a warm rectangle of light in the gap between two wooden houses, humming to itself. This is one of the country's strangest quiet miracles: machines full of coins, standing unguarded and unvandalised in the dark, decade after decade — an entire theory of society expressed as street furniture. In the collection tray sits one can, bought and never collected. Someone stood here, minutes or hours ago. The machine neither knows nor cares; it will glow like this all night, every night, for whoever comes next. A shin-hanga nocturne for everyone whose memory of Japan is not a temple but a can of hot coffee at an hour with no witnesses.

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